


^_/-^. 



DIRECTIONS 



FOR USING 



BOTTUM'S 



PATENT IMPROVED UNIVERSAL 



LATHE CHUCKS 



IMPROVED LATHES, 



FOR TURNING AND FINISHING EVERY DESCRIPTION OF 



WATCH PIVOTS, PINIONS, STAFFS, &c. 



FOR TURNING AND FINISHING EVERY DESCRIPTION OF WORK 
CONNECTED WITH 



THE WATCH MOVEMENT. 



PATENTED JULY 15th, 1851. 



NEW YORK : 
PRINTED BY HART & HOLDEN, 16 JOHN STREET. 



li i-v 



1852. 




o.^^ -^ y^^, .^^^ • 2 ^. .^;>/ -^ 



DIRECTIONS 



FOR USING 



)^' 



BOTTUM'S 



PATENT IMPROVED UNIVERSAL 



LATHE CHUCKS 



) .' 



i<''-' 



IMPROVED LATHES, 



FOR TURNING AND FINISHING EVERY DESCRIPTION OF 



WATCH PIVOTS, PINIONS, STAFFS, (fee. 



FOR TURNING AND FINISHING EVERY DESCRIPTION OP WORK 
CONNECTED WITH 



^^^ 



THE WATCH MOVEM] 
PATENTED JULY 15th V 1 8*5 1 * "' ''^ ^ 



NEW YORK : 
PRINTED BY HART & HOLDEN, 16 JOHN STREET. 

1852. 



\ ^< -s 



^'^A^ 



.> 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by James M. Bottum, m 
the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York, 



y 



pv^ 



PREFACE. 



The following pages are not as complete \n. all respects as could be 
desired, yet they are believed to contain every thing necessary for 
the practical workman, for whose use they are chiefly designed. 

Before the improvements here introduced, the foot Lathe had 
always been regarded as an article of little value to Watchmakers, in 
the construction of the more deHcate parts of a Watch. In its 
improved form, it is believed to be more justly entitled to the appella- 
tion of " Universal Lathe'''' than any other now in use. Every 
variety of work, of the most delicate kinds, dftn be more safely and 
rapidly made, and at the same time equahng any thing produced by 
either makers or finishers in the ordinary way. The advantages to 
be derived from its use by those who are engaged in Watch Repair- 
ing, will greatly enhance its value, and will be duly appreciated by 
every candid person at all acquainted with the business. 

May, 1852. 



DIRECTIONS. 



Figure 1. 



Figure 1 is a side view of the Improved Universal Lathe, 
designed more particularly for watchmakers' use. It is so 
constructed as to run with the least possible friction, and at 
the same time with great steadiness of motion ; the parts 
cannot be easily worn from their adjustments, and with or- 
dinary care it may be used for years for turning the most 
dehcate pieces, without requiring any material alteration or 
repairs. For fitting up the Lathe, a strongly twisted cotton 
band should be used on the wheel, sufficiently large to fill 
the groove in the wood on the mandril ; the ends should lap 
a Uttle, and be well sewed together ; the band should draw 
but lightly on the wheel, especially when the finer parts of 
a watch are to be turned and finished. 

A is a Chuck, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 ; C the cement ; 
c and d the staff", with a pivot as cemented on the Chuck. 

Figure 2. 

Fig. 2 shows the method of securing a centre wheel and 
pinion, or any other long piece, where it may be inconvia- 



nient to use much cement. The Chuck A is to be carefully 
turned and centred at a, as shown in the figure ; the hollow 
tube h should be made to slide freely on the Chuck A ; 
C C are the parts where the cement is to be used. When 
a wheel is to be fastened, the cement should be softened at 
C C, and the hollow tube B moved gently to the left, until 
the pinion arbor meets the centre of the Chuck at A. The 
Lathe-mandril should then be slowly turned, and a piece of 
watch-wood held against the pivot at a, until the cement 
is hard. 

A centre wheel and pinion may be secured in this manner 
for a new pivot, or for finishing the hollow, or facing the 
pinion, or making any required alteration in the wheel. 

Figures 3 & 4. 

Figs. 3 and 4 are Chucks, used for centring, turning and 
finishing pinions. In Fig. 3, d is the pivot, h the wheel, 
c the pinion, a the centre of the Chuck, and C the cement. 
Fig. 4 shows the pinion c and the pivot d without the wheel, 
and secured as in Fig. 3. This form of Chuck is used for 
all the smaller pinions, either with or without their wheels, 
and for turning and finishing new ones, or pivoting old 
ones, facing pinions, and pivoting hollows ; and when firmly 
secured by the cement, wheels may be fastened on their 
pinions by careful riveting, before they are taken from the 
Chuck. 

Figure 5. 

Fig. 5 shows the shape of the Chuck to be used for ob- 
taining correct centres for a cylinder or balance staff, or any 
other piece where two centres are required. The Chuck is 



to be heated by the lamp until it will melt the cement when 
applied to the end ; when a sufficient quantity is melted on 
the Chuck, the cylinder c is to be placed in the cement i>, 
while warm ; the blaze of the lamp, as seen at H^ is then 
carefully applied to the cement D and the collet c ; a piece 
of watch-wood e is to be placed at the end of the outer 
pivot of c, and the cylinder gently pressed into the cement 
until the inner pivot or centre is brought to its place, as 
shown in the figure. The Chuck d is then to be slowly 
turned, and the wood held against the outer pivot or centre, 
as seen at e. If required, the piece e may be placed on 
the Lathe-rest, that it may be more steadily held until the 
cement becomes hard. 

For removing the cylinder or other small piece from the 
Chuck, the blaze of the lamp should be appHed to the long- 
pliers or tweezers while holding on to the piece. 

In this manner all delicate parts of watches may be taken 
from the Chuck, without taking the cement with them. 

Figure 6. 

Fig. 6 shows the cylinder in the cement, as in Fig. 5, mth 
reversed centres. The same method is emi^loyed for secur- 
ing it in the Chuck, as that described in Fig. 5, except that 
it is centred from the body of the cylinder, as shown in the 
figure. In applying the lamp, care should be had at aU 
times not to hum the cement, and an alcohol lamp should 
be used for heating and cementing every kind of work con- 
nected with the Lathe. 

Figure Y. 

Fig. 7 shows a verge, as cemented on the Chuck. A 



8 

piece of wood, cut into convenient shape, should be used, as 
shown in the figure; it should also be used for chucking 
every description of work ; and in all cases the lamp is to 
be first applied to the Chuck, and the heat communicated 
from it to the cement, and as much as possible to the piece 
to be cemented. 

Figure 8. 

Fig. 8 shows a balance wheel pinion in the position to be 
turned and finished. When long pinions or delicate parts 
of watches are to be chucked, the cement should cover the 
piece, as shown in the figure, and afterwards be removed 
as the parts are wanted for turning and finishing. 

FictUre 9. 

Fig. 9 shows a Chuck for repairing pivots to the barrel 
arbor when there is a square on each end. The Chuck is 
to be drilled, as shown in the figure, and a piece of brass 
fastened on the end with tin solder, and a hole turned in it 
to fit the plate or barrel-bar-pivot. The arbor may then be 
secured in the usual way, for any alteration that may be 
required. 

Figure 10. 

Fig. 10 shows the form of the Chuck to be used for ce- 
menting jewels and other pieces which are required to run 
true on the edge and face. A piece of wood is to be held 
against the face and edge of the jewel, as shown in the 
figure. The chuck is to be slowly turned, and the piece of 
wood beld steadily on the Lathe-rest and against the jewel, 



\ 



Figure 11. 

Fig. 11 represents a boxwood Chuck secured to the brass 
Chuck d ; and the hollow e in the wood is to be turned, 
as shown in the figure, and is used with crocus and oil for 
facing and finishing flat wheels on their pinions. The space 
e should be made large enough to give perfect freedom to 
the pinion, and the Chuck should have an alternate motion 
backward and forward. 

Figure 12. 

No. 1 represents a Chuck to be placed in the Lathe- 
mandril with a concave centre ; Nos. 2 and 3 a Chuck as 
taken fi-om the Lathe, to which is attached a wheel and 
pinion ; No. 4 a hollow piece of fine brass or bell-metal, to 
be used for facing and finishing the leaves of j^inions ; the 
screw h is to be placed as represented in No. 1, and the 
pinion to have a backward and forward motion. When 
more friction is required between the concave Chuck and the 
screw A, it may be had by using a little emery and water 
on the parts. 

Figure 13. 

Fig. 13 is a Chuck with a drilled centre, as in Figs. 9 and 
10, into which a piece of tempered steel wire is fastened by 
means of lead solder. When secured in this manner, it can 
be turned more safely and rapidly than when fastened by 
cement. In fitting the duplex staff" after the part for the 
roller is turned to the size wanted, it should be covered with 
cement until the other parts are finished. The same kind 



10 

of Chuck can be used for chronometer rollers, duplex pallets, 
table rollers, hollow pinions, &c., by converting the steel 
centre piece into an arbor. 

Figure 14. 

Fig. 14 is a Chuck, the face of which should be turned 
concave, and drilled for a centre piece, as in Fig. 13. The 
centre piece, when fitted, should be tapered and driven in, 
and should be sufficiently large to allow any alteration that 
may be required to fit the hole in the piece to be turned. 
This kind of Chuck may be used for balances, barrels, main- 
taining springs, and all other circular j^ieces which are re- 
quired to be turned true from their sides and centres. 

Figure 15. 

Fig. 15 shows the method of finishing the balance rim of 
a steel balance. A flat wheel, made of fine brass or copper, 
and running on two pivots, is used in the place of the one 
represented in Fig. 16. The balance is to be fastened on 
the Chuck, and the wheel h held on the balance rim, as 
seen in Fig. 15. The same kind of wheel may be used with 
oil-stone, if required. 

Figure 16. 

Fig. 16 is a wheel for finishing conical pivots. The edge 
of the wheel is placed under the pivot, as represented in Fig. 
1*7, the straight part of the pivot resting on the flat part of 
the wheel ; at the same time the edge of the wheel must fit 
the conical part of the pivot : the motion of the pivot will 
give motion to the wheel, and, with the use of fine crociis 



11 

and oil, conical pivots may be rapidly finished directly from 
the graver. A piece of watch-wood may be used for clean- 
ing the pivot after using the wheel. 

Figure 18. 

Fig. 18 shows a brass or copper wheel made to run freely 
on two pivots, as represented in the figure, and is used for 
glossing hollows. The wheel must be turned an oval shape, 
and quite sharp at the edge, and its diameter must be three 
times that of the hollow to be finished. If needed, oil- 
stone dust may be first used, and then finished with fine 
glossing stuff" and oil. If care is used in turning the hol- 
low, oil-stone will not be necessaiy. 

Figures 19, 20, 21 & 22. 

Fig. 19 shows the kinds of wheels used for grinding and 
finishing flat surfaces of steel. H is the wheel to be fastened 
to the Lathe-mandril ; c the wheel to which the pieces to be 
finished are cemented, and must be one half the diameter of 
the wheel H. The smaller wheel c should be held to its 
place on the larger one H by a short handle, on which a 
pivot is made to fit the centre hole of the smaller wheel, as 
shown in the figure. 

Fig. 20 shows the smaller wheel c, with the pieces fas- 
tened by cement for grinding and finishing, and, when used, 
should be held on one side of the centre of the wheel H. 
The motion of the larger wheel H will be communicated to 
the smaller one c, and by this method steel surfaces can be 
rapidly and perfectly finished. Nos. 1 and 2, in Fig. 20, 
show the pieces as cemented in their places. When only 
one spring is to be finished, a piece of soft steel or iron, of 



12 

tlie same thickness as the spring, should be cemented on 
the wheel with it, as in No. 2. When screw heads are 
to be finished, holes should be made for the screws in the 
wheel c, Fig. 19. In this way a great number can be fin- 
ished at the same time. If only one or two should be 
wanted, a piece must be used to level them, as has been 
shown in Fig. 20. When glossing steel pieces which are 
to be blued, the crocus should not be suffered to dry on the 
wheel, or the blue will not be perfect, no matter how finely 
the piece may be finished. A great variety of concave and 
convex pieces can be cut and finished in the manner already 
described. 

For concave surfaces, the larger wheel must be convex, as 
in Fig. 21, and the smaller one concave ; and the reverse 
must be the case, as shown in Fig. 22, when convex surfaces 
are to be finished. 

Figure 23. 

Fig. 23 shows a bolt, as cemented at &, so as to bring its 
face on the lower edge of the wheel c, only a section of 
which is shown in the figure. The lower end of a should be 
tapered to a point, and be of sufficient length to be placed 
in a rest secured to the bench, so that the piece b shall be 
parallel with the face of the wheel c ; the face of the bolt or 
other circular piece is then to be brought against the face of 
the wheel c, and at the same time to have a circular motion 
between the thumb and fingers. For grinding and shaping 
the work, an iron or copper wheel should be used, and a tin 
wheel for glossing. By this method the faces of lever pal- 
lets, bolts, and a variety of cu'cular springs and other pieces, 
may be finished. 



13 

Figure 24. 

Fig. 24 shows a plate for making and finishing flat sur- 
faces. Nos. 1 and 2 are the adjusting screws, which can be 
used to bring the surface of the piece to be finished to the 
position required on the wheel, either at h or c. The part is 
to be made flat with emery and water, and, after being 
thoroughly cleaned, may be glossed with crocus and oil on 
a tin wheel. The part finished should be covered with a 
solution of gum shellac and alcohol, which will protect it 
from injury while the other parts are being ground and fin- 
ished. Should the workman wish to hasten the evaporation 
of the alcohol in the shellac, he can do so by holding it for 
a moment near the blaze of the lamp. By making holes 
through the plate, it may be used for finishing ends of fusee 
squares, canon pinions, flat screw heads, &c., &c. 

Figure 25. 

Fig. 25 shows a tin roller, which is used for frosting 
wheels and other parts of watches. It is first to be rolled 
on a piece of hard wood, thinly covered with dry flour of 
of emery, and then held against the wheel, and both wheel 
and roller turned together. When only parts of wheels are 
to be frosted, it should be done after other parts are finished. 
Fusee caps, dial, centre and main wheels, may be finished 
in the manner described, and should then be washed in 
alcohol with a fine brush, and dried in boxwood sawdust. 

Figures 26 & 27. 

Fig. 26 shows the gi-aver and the piece to be turned. D 
is the graver, and A and S the line of direction in which 



14 



it is to be held to turn the piece c. When it cuts more 
deeply than is required, move the point towards A instead 
of c. If held as represented in the figure, the point cannot 
be easily broken, and the cutting edge will last much longer 
than when held in any other position. 

When the ends of pinion leaves are to be turned, the 
graver must be placed on the under side of the pinion arbor, 
as shown in Fig. 2*7, with its cutting side against the face of 
the pinion. The edge is then to be steadily turned towards 
the face of the leaves until it comes in contact with them, 
and the cutting should be from towards the centre outwards, 
and the point so much inclined downwards as to cut two 
or more leaves at the same time. 

If the above directions are strictly followed, the leaves of 
pinions and the teeth of wheels may be turned perfectly flat, 
and can be readily finished directly from the graver. 

Figure 28, 

Fig. 28 shows the form of the bench which should be 
used in fitting up the Lathe. The dimensions should bo 
nearly as follows ; 

Length, ------ 3 feet 9 inches. 

Width, 1 " 11 " 

Height, ------ 3 " 8 " 

The distance between the cross pieces on which the wheel 
mandril is secured, should be about 10 inches from centre 
to centre. The spiral spring, which is designed to give 
steadiness of motion to the wheel, should be secured to the 
crank and the back upright piece, as shown in the figure. 
The foot-piece should be secured to the back rail by a hinge 



15 



and a small iron rod used to connect the foot-piece with the 
crank. It should be secured to the foot-piece by a staple, 
and to the crank by a hook on the end of the rod. 



Pivots with Square Shoulders. 

For finishing pivots with square shoulders, a straight slip 
of soft steel is first used. It should be beveled on the side 
to be used against the shoulder, to quite a thin edge, and 
placed on the under side of the pivot. The Lathe-rest 
should be drawn out as far as possible, and so adjusted that 
the slip, when placed on the pivot and against the rest, shall 
be in a line with the shoulder. The pivot should be slowly 
turaed, and the slip have a short backward and forward 
motion. Oil-stone dust may be first used, if needed, and 
for glossing a slip of fine brass is preferred. The use of the 
eye-glass will be found of much service, especially in finish- 
ing small pivots, as it will enable the workman to hold the 
polishing piece more steadily on the pivot and against the 
shoulder. 

Pivot Drills and New Pivots, 

Drills, such as are used for new pivots, should be enclosed 
in an iron or copper tuhe^ and hardened in oil. The drill 
point is then to be held in the pliers, and placed in the blaze 
of the lamp until it is blued nearly to the point. The drill 
is to be secured in a small handle or a soft piece of wood, 
and sharpened so as to cut only in one direction. It should 
be held in the hand, and the balance staff* or other piece to 
be drilled, secured in the usual way in the Chuck, and the 
centre turned with the graver point. The staff" may then 



16 



be drilled, and a piece of steel driven into the hole, and the 
pivot turned and finished without being removed from the 
Chuck. The larger drills may be cemented in Chucks 
drilled for the purpose, and the piece to be drilled should be 
placed between the drill, and a piece of wood held across 
the Lathe-rest. 

For Removing Cement from the Work. 

Parts of watches or other pieces should be held in a pair 
of tweezers or long pliers, and the lamp applied near their 
ends, so as to melt the cement on the piece ; it may then 
be removed with a stiff brush, and the piece should after- 
w^ards be placed in alcohol warmed over the lamp, and the 
Lathe-brush used on it with line crocus and oil. 

Crocus and Oil. 

In preparing crocus for glossing steel or brass, much care 
should be used, and no more oil added than will be sufficient 
to make it into a thick paste. It should be well broken and 
mixed, and kept in a close box free from dust. Watch oil 
is preferred for this purpose, as it does not dry so readily as 
other oils, and may be kept for months after being prepared 
in this way, without injury. 

Solu Hon for Tinning. 

To one ounce of muriatic acid add half an ounce of zinc. 
It should be kept in a glass bottle with a gTOund glass stop- 
per. When used, a very little should be taken from the 
bottle on the stopper, and touched to the steel, or iron, or 
other metal to be tinned ; it can then be soldered with tin 
or lead solder. 



17 



Figs. 1, 2, 3 & 4. 




19 



Fig, 5. 



Fig. 6. 




21 






Fig. mr^i I J 

12, ^^% / 



Fig. 13. 



Fig. 14. Fig. 15. 




Fig. 2^. Fig. 19. Fig. 22. Fig.2\. 




V 



Fig. 24. 



Fig. 25. 




. TRRftRY OF CONGRESS | 

mi- 



